Garage Door
Weatherstripping

It removes the easiest way in, which is usually the gap under the door. A worn or flattened bottom seal can leave a centimetre or more of clear space along the full width, and a mouse needs far less than that. A fresh seal that makes proper contact with the floor, plus intact side seals, closes the obvious routes. It will not help with gaps elsewhere in the building, so if something is still getting in we will point out where.

Usually, yes. Older concrete slabs are rarely flat, and a standard bottom seal can only follow so much of a dip. A floor-mounted threshold seal works with the bottom strip to close an uneven gap, and on a badly worn slab it is often the only thing that will. It also helps keep driven rain and runoff from getting under the door in the first place.

Less time than the manufacturer's figure, generally. Rubber and vinyl seals give up to salt air, damp and UV, and on the Island the exposed side and top seals tend to go brittle before the bottom strip wears through. Properties near the water see it soonest. It is cheap enough that replacing it is routine maintenance rather than a repair.

This is one of the few garage door jobs that is reasonable to take on, since it does not involve spring tension. The bottom strip slides into a retainer at the base of the door, and the hard parts are getting the right profile for your retainer and threading a long piece of rubber without kinking it. If you would rather not, we carry the common profiles and it is a quick visit.

It makes it noticeably less drafty, which is what people usually mean. Sealing the gaps stops the wind moving through and keeps rain and blown leaves out, so an attached garage stops pulling cold air toward the house. It is not insulation, though. If the garage itself is uninsulated, seals alone will not turn it into a warm room, and we would rather say that than oversell a strip of rubber.

Often a lot. A door that bangs and rattles in a storm is usually moving against worn side seals with nothing left to cushion it. New seals take up that slack and quieten the door down. If the rattle continues after the seals are replaced, the cause is loose hardware or worn rollers instead, which is a different job and we will tell you so.